Maroon Bells loop, the Grand Finale

It was last September we wanted to spend a weekend of September in Crested Butte for fall colors/wedding anniversary. When we checked the prices, the lodging cost was insane. This year, we chose to do our last of the backpacking trip in Maroon Bells/Snowmass wilderness, partaking in a super-famous Four Pass loop, but from the "other" side, lesser known, not requiring reservations/parking fees, which happened to be from the north of Crested Butte. It also gave us more miles due to a different approach, and we chose to go counterclockwise, opposite to vast majority of hikers there. All that, plus he full-blown Fall colors, was an amazing closing backpacking adventure, as well as a celebration of our 12th official matrimony, and my 28 years in good ol' USofA. What a celebration it was! Photoalbum.

The colors met us right up the road from Crested Butte early Wednesday morning. But before we even got to that part, we picked up a Colorado Trail through-hiker in Buena Vista hitching a ride to Cottonwood pass to continue on his journey. I felt like I was giving back for all those rides I got while thru hiking various trails - and we had a fun conversation. The pretty new road over Cottonwood pass was absolutely fantastic, quiet, beautiful, with so many trailheads and camping spots, it was a great information for the future. A much better drive than over Gunnison. The dirt road off Crested Butte was not nearly as bad as I am always fearing (thank you, Larry, for driving), and the majestic mountains with spices of yellow aspen were a candy for the eye.

We pulled into a parking lot, picked up our backpacks, left the car behind, and off into the connecting trail we went. Soon the views opened up, with our first of 4 passes, West Maroon, right up in front and to the right. A quick turn, passing others, day hikers and backpackers alike, we were making good grounds, even though we didn't start until way after 10 am. By noon, we stood on top of West Maroon pass - so did 2 dozens of "your best friends". Gosh, I know it sounds obnoxious, and the nature is for everyone, but that many people just freak me out and don't allow me to enjoy anything when I am out there. I dropped to the other side, barely stopping for a second just below the pass to snap a photo of Larry, and made my way down so fast, Larry had to run off to catch me. One done, 3 to go.

The valley floor provided amazing views on the Great Maroon Bells, sheer rock mountains towering above and around, and lots of color splashed into the sides and along the way. We met plenty of folks going clockwise direction, as well as passed a number hiking same way as we did, and made ground.

Eventually, the trail brought us to Crater lake, the one that gets the most pictures taken - and what a huge disappointment that mud puddle was. All dried up, and yet full of tourist. This was near the trail connector that would take folks out of the "official" parking lot on the Aspen side. I moved through the masses with my head down, and probably lost on some view taking process, although we both snapped photos of what can't compare to our expectations - yet still pretty grand.

We stopped for a quick break as the trail split from the "city-connector" and started taking us up to the next pass. There we actually had a very pleasant conversation with folks from Boston area, and even hiked for a bit together, before they slowed down. Once we cleared the tree line, the views opened up - and what views they were! Our next pass up ahead to the right, Maroon Bells to the left, all the grandiosity of this wilderness upon our eyes. I took a deep breath. What wonder of creation...

We didn't have a particular destination in mind, though we did discuss stopping below the second pass, to set us up for the morning climb. So shortly before 4 pm, at around 11 miles for the day, I crossed the creek, looked to my left, and exhale: Oh, my Lord, it's a Marriott of camping spots...huge flat dirt ground inside the tall fur trees, a drop-off opening, with the views 180 degrees on both Maroons and the rock wall. It was a crime not to take it. Our day was done!

I cooked, Larry set up the tent, and we spent a lot of time taking photos and gazing at the sight.

We settled in for the night quite early, as usual when we hike together, and just before drifting off, with a tent flap still pulled open, I gasped - a huge moose walked by the tent not more than 6 feet away, slowly, making some hoofing sounds. It stood by the creek next to the campsite for a few minutes, still producing same noise, then walked away. Finally, we closed the eyes, yet the night itself was anything BUT restful...At 2:30 am we both were jolted by the sound of helicopter engine and a beam of light shining on our tent. The beam moved around a lot, lightening the valley floor below our shelf with the campsite, and it was obvious, the search rescue was in progress. We stood at the edge, watching the work of those people, wondering if somebody fell of Maroon climb, is it a rescue mission, or a recovery - and that lasted all the way until 4:30 am. (When we got out of the woods and checked the news, it turned out some benign altitude sickness...jeez, people, calling helicopter for such a dangerous night operation for throwing up?) Once we managed to fell asleep, again, the night temps fell down, and it was far in the 20's when we got up at 6 am, frost and all the stuff. Coffee and yummies for breakfast, off we go, up, up for a mile and half - to our pass #2, Buckskin Pass. We had it ALL to ourselves, what a perfect morning sunrise it was!

The views that presented themselves on the other side of the pass were not too shabby, either. Oh, how fortunate we are that we can go on feet, deep into wilderness, and have these amazing experiences! On the way down we saw so many folks climbing their way to the pass, and we were really happy to have nagged that spot without anybody else. In fact, on the way down, I spread my "wings" and kept yelling: "Wake up, America! I am so happy!" Truly, my happy place, indeed...

We made it down to a creek crossing, and got ready for the next section. The trail meandered through the woods on a gentle slope for quite some time, before it took us over a rock slide - and to the right, a huge view on Snowmass Lake swallowed our imagination fully. What a gem! Such huge, beautiful! We just had to take a break and sit there, quietly, in awe...

We continued our climb on a windy open terrain to the next pass, and kept looking over the shoulder for the lake, that kept getting bigger as the height of where we were allowed us to see more. All around us, the mountains stood their time permanently, and it was a sight to behold.

We didn't have the pass #3, Trail Rider pass, to ourselves, nor would we spend much time there anyway. The wind kept growing throughout the day, and we felt like almost being blown off the mountain. 

The new views were up in front, and it was time to go down yet another valley. 

That 3+ miles downhill was nothing short of me swearing profusely. I am not a fan of steep loose dirt, sliding down nearly uncontrollably, but seeing all those poor souls climbing UP that side, in the middle of the heat of the day - proved we chose the correct direction for the loop. Half-way down, there was a flat shelf with a pond, and we did another break stop. Why not, it's the "enjoying" kind of thing!

The next part of that downhill was as treacherous as the previous. I would say our trek down was as slow as if we were climbing up, if not slower. But, eventually, there was a valley below us, a fresh water off the side of the mountain, and some flat ground with a river running in the middle. It felt good to stretch our legs on that, as we walked and discussed the plan for the night stop.

Not long of a relief it was, another climb began in its earnest. We didn't plan to go over the 4th pass, wanting to save it for the last morning, but we did want to set ourselves half-way up to it. So we climbed. The map showed a little stream crossing in the middle of that section, and we asked 3 parties of hikers going down if they remember the water. All of them were wishy-washy, yet all said "yeah, kinda, saw that". So, we pressed on, even as our "estimated" mileage for the day rolled over 12, 13...

At last, the next pass stood upon our heads...14 miles in, past any points where that water should have been, dry as a none field in front and behind us. WTF, people? You pay attention to anything as you hike? If you're not sure what you saw or didn't, why mislead others? We were quite pissed off, to say the least. And we were some 0.6 miles under the last pass. Screw it, we said, lets get it over with!

Not thrilled about it, yet we had done it. 3 passes in 1 day! While for my friends ultrarunners, all fit and stuff, and for those who know me putting down easily 30+ and even 40 miles in my own backpacking trips, doing 3 passes for a regular human, 17 miles, blew minds of everyone we met on the way down. Which, by the way, in the first 0.2 miles made me grit my teeth and swear not under my breath, but rather loudly (thanks, IBTAT, fuckballs and all!).

It took us all the way to the intersection with our original (!!) connecting trail before we found a flat spot good enough for the tent - as well as a small creek crossing for the water. It was about 5 pm, not late by any definition, but really, we could have made it to the car and out if we'd wanted to. We didn't. We both cooled off our bad attitude, recharged with dinner and sweets, and checked out the sunset.

It was a super-quiet night, no wind, not a sound. Not that I slept, anyway. Closer to the morning, the freeze came back with vengeance, and the early morning was frost, and shaking bodies. 

Sadly, the trip was over. We were a mere 3.5 miles out of the car, all downhill. It went by so fast, I didn't even get a chance to reminisce about the last couple of days. God, how much I love it all...

Our drive back towards Crested Butte showed us more color than it was only 2 days prior. Fall is here. The hills have come alive!

We made a stop for breakfast downtown in Crested Butte - cute place! - and checked this mountain town off our list to visit. It was a little sad (at least for me) to drive back home, knowing, it'll be months before I get to do it, again. Many, many months...so many places to go, I am itching to see it all.

The Fall is definitely here, even down in Colorado Springs. The nights are down to 40's, and our apple tree is full of apples. Not too long, and the snow will come, with everything winter brings us. And that, too, is absolutely wonderful to have, seasons, switch of activities, all the variety and spice in life.