San Juan mountains, at a much slower pace

FULL PHOTOALBUM HERE 

Sometimes it is a nice thing to slow down, to do exactly what I normally don't when I go out into the mountains for days by myself, aiming at high goals, hiking from way before dawn till dusk, not stopping to smell the flowers, nor eat wild berries, and admire the views at a much deeper level. It is also a great way to feel the connection to the person you're with - and share the thoughts of the views and the flowers and all that wonderful stuff nature has to offer us.

And thus Larry and I planned our backpacking trip - to South San Juan Wilderness. It was truly a wilderness in a greater sense, so far out of reaches, first to get to a trailhead, then to go even deeper into the backcountry, places only folks with desire and fitness can get to. What a wonderful few days we've had! Getting up by 3:30 am on Thursday was well worth it, as the drive took us 5 hours (including last hour and half on a dirt road I rather not be on - and where we picked up a struggler who's car got a flat and he needed a ride to a hole-in-a-wall place we were heading towards). We dropped the man off so he can at least make a phone call from the little store, and drove another 20-some minutes to a Tree Forks trailhead. By the time we started our hike, it was 9:40 am and getting warm.

The first 2 miles are relatively flat, then we got to a split and started climbing in earnest. Our first destination was Blue Lake, seemingly more popular stop - though we only encountered one set up tent and one other couple passing by in other direction. We took a short break, and continued climbing, as the trail became more and more vague, and the sings disappeared completely. At times, we were barely sure we're still tracking the right way - having to pull out paper maps and comparing the relief. Having only 33 lbs in my pack, and going at someone else's pace, was a gift for me - and I was truly enjoying what the mountains had to offer. At some point we reached Glacier Lake, and were in awe of the overhang of the cornice - I guess it is a true glacier that formed this lake after all.

Shortly after, we popped at the highest point of our day, and finally began a short descend (loosing a trail a few times, overgrown and wet). After crossing the small creek tributary, we finally stumbled on some kind of sign - broken and laying on the ground. Only having a physical map and being able to read it allowed us to figure out the direction of how to "swamp through" the marshes in front of us to get to our day 1 spot - Twin lakes. We set the camp, took a little break, cooked and ate dinner, and had an early tent time. Larry fell asleep pretty fast, while I spent some time knitting. The rain rolled in for an hour or so, but other than that, the night was quiet and peaceful.

Not getting out of the tent until nearly 7 am was a total unheard of for me, and I "milked" every minute of it, almost peeing my pants. I just never know if I get to do it again any time soon! Coffee for breakfast (what a luxury!) - and we were ready to set out for the next day, saying goodbye to our absolutely not threatened visitor, Deer.

We waded through the marsh, again, and spotted a preset huge white tent for Outfitters (by the way, we did some research after coming back, and a day at that kind of spot costs $300/day/per person!, plus they provide food and a cook! Yowser, some people explore outdoors in completely different way than I can comprehend!). Anyway, the folks were super-nice, we chatted for a good while, mainly stopping to ask where the heck the trail to our next location is - and it turned out, it barely exists, unmaintained, only used by brave locals and adventurers rarely. Next couple of hours, despite going downhill, was about as much bushwhacking and route finding, spotting bent grass and traces of human steps, as about enjoying so much lush green and all kinds of color (plus some crawling over, under, and around the fallen trees). I slipped on the wet rocks while crossing one of the creeks, and hit my shin hard, but other than that, it was fun - though we were glad it eventually ended at the right intersection.

From there, we took a fork along the high side of the canyon with a river below, and the rock-imbedded trail reminded us Bear Creek trail at Hardrock 100 (between Ouray and Engineer Pass). The views were spectacular, though the temperatures rose and baked us enough to take an extended break at the next intersection.

All that downhill meant one thing - we had to climb in the next section. We dropped 2,300 ft, and had to gain over 2,000 ft in the next nearly 5 miles. It started pretty steep, but had a few places where it mellowed out into a meadow. One of them, I spotted a bear - our first Colorado bear! - in a distance, not that far from the trail. Good thing I looked, it was an adult! We stopped, Larry calmly but loudly said "Hey bear!", and I added "Hey, hey" as I slowly made a step back near him to get bigger together. Bear heard, lifted head, stared at us for a minute, then turned around and retrieved into the woods slowly. I did try to take a photo, but it didn't come out. We walked by the place talking, then relaxed again.

Well, relaxing was not happening, as the next full mile we encountered a full blown Jungle-Gym on the trail! How long it's been not cared for is not known, a few years, as some places had a walk-arounds, but all together, it was an hour of hitting the trees, branches, crawling, balancing, jumping, and all kind of things. Of course I managed to hit my other leg - in no other place but my still not fully healed hole below the knee. We were glad when that was over!

After next creek crossing, the trail went back up more steep yet again, and it was hugely covered in cow pies. Wow, those cows are going high! In fact, we eventually learned they free-range right on top of Continental Divide! Anyway, we kept a good effort, and finally popped at our goal - Green lake. There was an older couple already camped there (another nice people!) - and we walked some more to set a camp on top of the ridge near the lake. Man, it was windy! We kept our fingers crossed the win would die off by the night (it did), but until the darkness there were times we were concerned our tent would blow off from the Earth! The views, though, oh, my, well worth weathering the howling winds.

Sunset over the CDT ridge (Continental Divide)

In the middle of the night I had to get out to pee - and what a blessing it was. I looked up the sky, and saw the most magnificent sky full of an insane amount of stars - and a very wide band of Milky Way - I had seen in a very long time. I just set there, looking in complete awe, feeling so fortunate to have the ability to get far enough from the lights of civilization. And then, right in front of me, as close as one only might see in a cartoon, there was a huge - and I mean HUGE - falling star crossing the sky! I had seen falling stars, but that was sometimes absolutely astonishingly amazing! I got back into a tent and woke up Larry - get out and look up! He said the Milky Way during my 100 miler was sharper, but obviously I was too busy running the race. Still, he was glad to have gotten out.

Photo by IBTAT, but close enough

We chose to get up earlier next morning, so we can get on the trail and make the way back to the car by noon. Right before dawn, I kicked Larry out to go fish - he did carry his fly rod for a reason! He caught three brookies and was happy for the experience. We had our coffee, and started on our only climb for the day - a mere 0.7 miles up to Continental Divide. The views were opening up before we even hit the ridge, and then...oh, God, I was so glad I picked the loop in this direction, so we can finish the backpacking trip with such breathtaking views! 

Sunrise on the opposite side from CDT

The biggest Brooks Trout Larry caught so far

The CDT was very gently rolling, and while we kept a solid quick pace, it didn't stop us from complete admiration of what we saw around! Also, early mornings ARE the best times to hike, and I was missing my incomplete Colorado Trail attempt. The flower, even though way above 11,600 ft elevation, the green grass, the little lakes and ponds - the heart was full. We saw only one other person, and got back to Blue Lake. From there, it was 6 miles back to the car, downhill, and since we already did this part of the trail, it was uneventful. I did pick up one large mushroom (just couldn't pass it) and carried it last 3 miles in my hand. 

It was an amazing trip. So much of our state still to see, we barely scratched the surface even in this area, yet along in the whole state! And the country! Who needs any other kinds of vacations? I, personally, can do it non-stop.

Come home, shower-clean up, eat some non-granola food, spend a night in bed - and get back out there. Yeah, I know, some people have to work, and not everyone loves being dirty and sleep on the ground, plus hike all day long. I just hope I get to do it with Larry a couple more times this year - and then dream of more places to backpack in for next year once the winter hits us with cold and snow. :) I am evil like that. 

Come home, shower-clean up, eat some non-granola food, spend a night in bed - and get back out there. Yeah, I know, some people have to work, and not everyone loves being dirty and sleep on the ground, plus hike all day long. I just hope I get to do it with Larry a couple more times this year - and then dream of more places to backpack in for next year once the winter hits us with cold and snow. :) 

I am evil like that. He's been warned when he met me - and luckily (or not so much), I haven't changed in the years since. Nor do I want to. I would trade any niceties of civilized world for the privilege to be fit and to never lose the desire to spend active time in the mountains.